Salt System Not Producing Chlorine

Troubleshooting a Salt System That Isn’t Generating Chlorine

If your salt system isn’t producing chlorine, showing a low/zero reading, or the pool keeps drifting cloudy or green, there are several common causes. Most issues come from water chemistry, low salt, flow problems, or a cell that needs cleaning.

This guide walks you through the most likely reasons and what you can do before requesting service.

⭐ 1. Salt Level Incorrect (Too Low or Too High)

Your salt cell can only generate chlorine when the salt level is within a specific range—usually 2,700–3,400 ppm depending on model.

Signs:

✔ System shows “Low Salt,” “Check Salt,” or “High Salt”

✔ Zero or very low chlorine production

✔ Salt reading fluctuates wildly

Fix:

• Test salt with a digital test or pool store test (automation readings can drift)
• Add salt gradually—never all at once
• If salt is too high, partially drain and refill

Tip: Rain and splash-out lower salt. New water always dilutes salt.

⭐ 2. Cell Needs Cleaning (Very Common)

Calcium scale builds up inside the cell and blocks chlorine production.

Signs of a dirty cell:

✔ White crust or flakes inside

✔ Low production even with correct salt

✔ System says “Inspect Cell”

Fix:

1. Turn system OFF
2. Remove cell
3. Rinse with hose
4. If scale remains, clean with mild acid solution (4:1 water to acid)
5. Reinstall and restart system

Cells should be inspected every 3–6 months in Florida.

⭐ 3. Water Temperature Too Low

Salt systems automatically shut down in cold water (usually below 55°F).

Symptoms:

• “Cold Water” alert
• Chlorine production at 0%
• Pool losing chlorine faster than it’s produced

Fix:

No fix needed — this is normal.

Use liquid chlorine when water is cold.

⭐ 4. Flow Issue (Insufficient Water Flow Through Cell)

If the system senses low flow, it will stop producing chlorine to protect the cell.

Check:

✔ Dirty filter

✔ Pump speed too low

✔ Valves partially closed

✔ Air in the system

✔ Pump not primed

Fix:

• Clean filter
• Increase pump speed during chlorination
• Ensure valves are open
• Check pump lid O-ring
• Make sure the cell is installed in the correct direction

⭐ 5. Stabilizer (CYA) Too Low or Too High

Cyanuric Acid (CYA) protects chlorine from sunlight.

If levels are wrong, chlorine disappears rapidly even if the cell is working.

Low CYA (< 30 ppm):

✔ Chlorine burns off in hours

✔ Pool struggles to hold a residual

High CYA (> 90 ppm):

✔ Chlorine becomes less effective

✔ Pool turns cloudy or green

Fix:

• Target 60–70 ppm CYA for salt pools
• Add stabilizer if low
• Partially drain/refill if high

⭐ 6. Cell Reached End of Life

Salt cells typically last 3–7 years depending on use and water balance.

Signs of a worn-out cell:

✔ Can’t maintain chlorine levels

✔ Repeated “Inspect Cell” warnings

✔ System output stuck low even with good salt

✔ Visible corrosion

Fix:

Replace the salt cell with a compatible Hayward cell.

⭐ 7. Pump Run Time Too Short

Salt systems only produce chlorine when the pump is running.

Typical needs (Florida):

• Summer: 8–12 hours daily
• Winter: 4–6 hours daily

Hot weather, heavy use, or rain requires more runtime or higher output.

Fix:

• Increase pump run time
• Raise chlorinator percentage (50–80% typical)

⭐ 8. Organic Load Too High

If your pool has:

• Heavy debris
• Algae starting
• Sunscreen, sweat, pollen
• Recent pool parties

…chlorine demand may exceed what the cell can produce.

Fix:

• Shock the pool with liquid chlorine
• Run pump longer
• Brush and clean filters

Once demand drops, the salt system will maintain levels.

⭐ 9. Salt System or Automation Error

If the system shows error codes like:

• LO, HI, NO FLO, CHK CELL, GENERAL FAULT
• Or the panel won’t adjust output

…it may be a board, sensor, or software issue.

Try:

• Power cycle (turn breaker OFF → wait → ON)
• Recheck salt level manually
• Update automation firmware

If errors persist, service is required.

⭐ 10. When to Contact Professional Pool Company

Contact us if:

✔ Cell repeatedly shows “Low Salt” with correct levels

✔ Flow light won’t turn green

✔ Salt reading doesn’t match actual salt

✔ Cell heavily scaled or corroded

✔ Automation won’t adjust output

✔ Pump flow seems normal but chlorine stays at 0

We can diagnose:

• Failed salt cell
• Bad flow switch
• Corroded terminals
• Automation board issues
• Incorrect plumbing flow direction

⭐ Summary

A salt system not producing chlorine is usually caused by:

• Incorrect salt level
• Dirty cell
• Low flow
• Cold water
• Wrong CYA level
• High chlorine demand
• Aged or failing cell

Most issues can be fixed quickly with basic checks.

⭐ Need Help?

If your salt system still won’t produce chlorine after these steps, contact Professional Pool Company. We can test the cell, flow switch, and system readings to get your water balanced again.

Updated on: 29/11/2025